2015- 16 was a good time to travel and after the series of Earthquakes that shook Nepal, I felt the need to go visit. One of the most memorable parts of my 3 week-long stay was a cooking course I did.
On a grey, cloudy day on the 10th of September in 2015, I made my way over to Thamel in Kathmandu, where Raj Gywali a friend of my uncle, had invited me to attend a Mo:Mo making course at socialtours. Socialtours is a five-time Responsible Award nominated tour company in Nepal with mentions in Lonely Planet, National Geographic Adventure and a UNWTO publication on Sustainable Tourism Companies in Asia, not to mention several media. Established in 2002, they have played lead roles in Responsible Tourism practice in Nepal, in the sub-continent and in the world of responsible tourism.
They undertake trips in Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan and India under the following categories:
- GO LOCAL | Insider Tours
- BE ACTIVE | Soft Adventure with Professionals
- BE IMMERSED | Special Interest Travel
- BE INVOLVED | Philanthropic Travel
- CROSS BORDER TOURS – Nepal with India, Bhutan, Tibet, Oman.
As part of the GO LOCAL series, socialtours gives you an opportunity to learn how to cook like a Nepali! Each class lasts 3 and half hours. It starts with a tour of the bazaar in Kathmandu to source fresh ingredients, then continues on to the actual cooking and ends with lunch. All classes require a minimum of 2 participants and maximum of six participants. These cooking courses were introduced in February 2011 and have been a huge draw for people wanting to learn about Nepalese food. The courses are given by two wonderful women – Sakuntala Rokka and/or Asmita Tamang at the socialtours office in Kathmandu. The courses are offered either in the morning or in the afternoon. The fee for the cooking course is – Pay what you think it is worth.
I had dragged my aunt for the course as a minimum of two participants was required and she indulged me. We reached the socialtours office around 10 am and were sent off with Sakuntala to buy our ingredients for the Mo:Mo making course we had opted for. We walked a while until we reached a local grocery store where we purchased vegetables, refined flour and mo:mo masala. Our next stop was the butcher where we bought fresh chicken breast and lastly the dairy shop where we bought some local cow milk cheese.
Shopping List:
400 gms Chicken breast
300 gms Cow Milk Cheese
Vegetables:
2 large Onions
1 bunch Spinach
½ kg Tomato
1 pod Garlic
2 pcs Fresh Red Chilli
½ inch Ginger
50 gms Fresh Coriander
50 gms Spring Onion
1 pkt Momo masala
We bought all of this for the princely sum of 810 NR.
MOMOS (Yield 55 pcs)
Momos are a traditional delicacy in Tibet, Bhutan, Sikkim, Nepal and Ladakh. They are one of the most popular fast foods in these regions. In Kathmandu, it will be extremely difficult to estimate how many thousands of momos are consumed every day, as a snack or a light meal.
Momos can be made with a vegetable or meat filling, and nowadays the more adventurous have also started making them with fillings including chocolate, ice-cream, apples etc.
STEP I – DOUGH
6 Cups Refined flour (Maida)
1 ½ Cups Water
Knead the flour and water together to form a firm dough.
Cover with a damp cloth and leave for 1 hour.
Please note: The amount of water needed to mix with flour may vary. Add water judiciously
STEP II – FILLING FOR CHICKEN MOMOS
400 gms Chicken (mince by hand)
2 Tbsp Fresh Coriander (chopped)
1 ½ Onions (finely chopped)
3 Tbsp Spring onion (finely chopped)
1 Fresh Red Chilli (finely chopped)
1 Tbsp Ginger Garlic Paste (heaped tablespoon).
4 Tbsp Refined Oil
1 tsp Turmeric
1 tsp Garam Masala
1 tsp Cumin powder
1 tsp Coriander powder
1 tsp Momo Masala
Mix all the above ingredients by hand until combined thoroughly.
STEP II – FILLING FOR SPINACH & CHEESE MOMOS
250 gms Cheese (grated fine)
1 bunch Spinach (boiled and finely chopped)
1 tsp Garlic paste
½ tsp Salt
Mix the above ingredients together gently. Do not knead.
STEP III – PREPARE MOMOS
Dust working board with dry flour. Take the dough out of your bowl and place on a working surface to knock back the air out of it. Knead again and roll into coin sized balls. Using a rolling pin, flatten the balls into circular pieces of dough to make the wrapper. Flatten on the working surface with your hand to about 2-inch diameter. Hold the edges of the semi-flattened dough with one hand and with the other hand begin rolling the edges of the dough out, swirling a bit at a time. Continue until the wrapper attains 3-inch diameter circular shape.
IMPORTANT: For well executed momos, it is essential that the middle portion of the wrapper be slightly thicker than the edges to ensure the structural integrity of dumplings during packing and steaming.
PACKING: The art in momos is in the packing. For packing hold wrapper on one palm, put 1 tablespoon of filling mixture and with the other hand bring all edges together to the center, making the pleats. Pinch and twist the pleats to ensure the absolute closure of the stuffed dumpling. This holds the key to good tasting, juicy dumplings.
Continue to repeat this process until all the dough has been used up.
STEP IV – STEAM MOMOS
Using a momo steamer is easy. Water is placed in the lowest compartment and the momos in the layers above. The steaming compartments have holes to allow the steam to penetrate and cook the momos. Heat up the steamer, oil the steamer rack well. This is critical because it will prevent the dumplings from sticking. Arrange uncooked momos in the steamer. Close the lid, and allow steaming until the dumplings are cooked through, about 10-15 mins. Take the dumplings off the steamer and immediately serve with a choice of mild or spicy tomato chutney.
TOMATO CHUTNEY
3 Tbsp Refined Oil
½ tsp Fenugreek seeds
2 cloves Garlic (roughly chopped)
½ inch Ginger (roughly chopped)
½ kg Tomato (chopped)
½ tsp Turmeric
1 ½ tsp Salt
1 ½ tsp Cumin + Coriander powder
100 gms Roasted peanuts
4 Dry Red Chillies (Roasted)
2 Tbsp Marijuana Seeds (Bhaang seeds)
2 Tbsp Fresh Coriander
Heat the oil in a pan and add the fenugreek seeds. Stir till the seeds blacken. Now add the chopped garlic and chopped ginger and fry till golden brown. Add the chopped tomato and all the powdered spices. Cook till the tomato is cooked through and reduced. Remove from fame and cool.
MILD – Blend half the tomato mixture with 100 gms roasted peanuts.
SPICY – Blend the other half with green coriander, roasted red chillies and marijuana seeds.
The whole process is so much fun in their bright yellow kitchen wearing ‘I love momo’ aprons and chatting with Sakuntala and Asmita. They are friendly and warm with their ever-ready smiles and enthusiasm for what they do. Sakuntala is very knowledgeable and makes momo making look so easy. She doesn’t laugh while we stumble over the pleats with our clumsy fingers and is right there helping you get better at it, while her bright eyed assistant Asmita finishes making the momos that we’re too slow to and simultaneously cleans up like a fairy in the background.
These two women are the powerhouse behind the cooking classes and can also teach you a typical Nepali Meal or Aloo Paranthas for the less adventurous. Ideally, the Nepali meal is a treat but with some family in Nepal I do have some access to that kind of cooking. Momos however, require technical skill and very adept fingers. Sakuntala and Asmita helped us feel more adequate by doing most of it. By the time we were waiting on the momos I taught Sakuntala and Asmita how to make Lachha paranthas. One could say, we did a little recipe barter there. They were so eager to learn something new that I wished I could stay back and show them more things.
Once the momos were done, they were heaped on to plates made with sal leaves and chutney spooned into bowls of the same material. All biodegradable and true to the motto of responsible tourism that socialtours follows. We shared the momos with others and ate till we couldn’t move. I needed a nap right then.
Highlights of the class:
- Walking through the byanes of Thamel to source ingredients
- Chopping each item ourselves and yes we made the chicken mince ourselves with huge cleavers
- Actually being able to make one, yes ONE momo with perfect pleats!
- Giggling over the fact that Marijuana seeds (Bhaaaaaaannnnngggg!!!) are added to the tomato chutney
- Exchanging recipes
- Finally getting to eat the momos we slaved over
- The spicy tomato chutney and chicken momos were my favourite combination
- Sharing the momos with Raj Gywali and his friends who dropped by after our class was over
Pssst.. COOK like a LOCAL is the most booked tour of the GO LOCAL series. You HAVE to sign up if you go to Nepal and have a few days in Kathmandu. You can book here: https://www.facebook.com/cook.like.a.local/
Or here https://live.tourcms.com/reserve/r1.php?t=37&a=1576&w=1268&ty=t&k=13cf8c7edd1d
SOCIALTOURS INFO:
Address: Tridevi Marg, Thamel, Kathmandu
TIP: At Tridevi Marg, opposite the Himalayan Bank, you will see a small lane on the left of the SALEWA Store. They’re at the end of the lane.
Phone: +977 1 4412 508, +977 9801 1234 01 (available 24/7)
E-mail: info@socialtours.com
Working hours: 10:00 – 17:00 Monday to Friday
Find them at www.socialtours.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/socialtours.np/
Blog: http://socialtours.blogspot.in/
Twitter: @socialtours
Instagram: @socialtours